Product: Raw ewes’ milk cheese.
Location: Villafranca de Barros, Badajoz province, Extremadura
Intrepid adventurer: James Robinson
Dairy: This is a smallish dairy employing about 11 people. They produce the Torta style cheese which turns liquid in the centre as it matures.
Ernesto buys his milk from just two suppliers, one of these is his brother, about 60k to the north east of Villafranca de Barros, and the other a finca about 40k in the same direction where they have a herd of 2,000 sheep.
The two farms from which the dairy buys its milk are both quite impressive. The first is a large finca owned by a wealthy non-farmer who is head of a Spanish equestrian body and whose father bought the farm. It has horses and iberico pigs as well as the sheep and eagles circle overhead. The other is the family farm where Ernesto’s brother still tends the sheep, a smaller affair but pretty.
Production method: The cheese is made using a cardoon thistle rennet produced by the dairy. They buy their thistles in and, as required, steep them in water for a day in a muslin cloth, and then use the liquid to coagulate the milk. Recent regulations require that the thistles are harvested only in areas that have been accredited as producing unadulterated plants.
They use a 1600lt cuba de cuajada (essentially a large bath) for the production of their cheese. This is filled with the milk that has been stored at approximately 4º and gradually warmed. The type of cheese that will be produced is determined by the temperature to which the milk is heated. The Torta de Barros is made with milk at 29º and it is raw milk cheese.
When the milk has been warmed the rennet is added to the milk and left for approximately ½ hour: at the end of this time the milk has set and has the appearance and texture of yoghurt. This is then cut up by blades which rotate in the cuba to the size of small maize kernels/large grains of rice and then gently stirred for half an hour to help separate the curds (cuajada) from the whey (suero). In the end 80% of the milk will become whey and a mere 20% of those 1600 litres will become cheese.
The milk is then poured into what is basically a large tray from which the whey begins to drain. The curds are then put into moulds lined with muslin cloths; this is all done by hand. The cheeses are subsequently put into a hydraulic press where they come under mild pressure for a couple of hours to help the drainage of the whey. The drained whey by-product is not wasted but is sent to feed pigs.
After this pressing the cheeses are taken from the moulds and the outside of the cheeses are salted by hand. They are then put into the maturing rooms.
Maturing: The first stage of the curing is done in high humidity (95%) and at low temperature (4º) for two months, the cheeses being turned by hand every two days. They are matured on wooden boards which helps to absorb any excess moisture. After this period they are moved to a second chamber where the humidity is lower (86%) and the temperature higher (13º).
When the cheeses have reached sufficient ripeness they are washed in water by hand and the tortas are finished with the traditional lace band (and a hairdryer sometimes!).
Seasonality: This does not seem to be a particular issue in terms of the quality of the cheeses any more. Through the feed given to the animals and the humidity and temperatures of the curing rooms the cheesemakers endeavour to produce a consistent product with as little seasonal variation as possible. This means that there is no particular merit in the cheeses of any specific time of year.
This is a very unique cheese: Merino sheep are usually famous for their wool, the use of homemade thistle rennet is also very unusual and the softness of the paste makes a great change from the better known hard cured sheeps cheese of Spain. The best way to eat this cheese, if you can stretch to buying yourself a whole one or by trying the mini, is to cut the top rind off and spoon out the cheese replacing the lid in between indulging. It comes in a number of sizes and it is a style of cheese that is becoming more prevelant.
Tasting notes: The texture is soft and creamy and the cheese can be spooned from the rind. An intriguing and complex cheese with sour, herbaceous and creamy notes.
Tip: the consistency may alter between batches – this is normal!
Similar cheeses: El Suspiro goat torta
On the 26th January 2008 Brindisa celebrated its 20th anniversary with a party for suppliers, customers and various friends and colleagues who have been associated with the company during these two decades. The venue had been chosen, the caterers booked, the musicians tracked down and the invitations sent out: after a few minor setbacks, disasters and attacks of panic, all was ready for the occasion.
The venue was a great; divided into a spacious high ceilinged area, perfect for the music and dancing, to smaller, more intimate vaulted spaces more conducive to conversation. There was something for everyone’s enjoyment.
Despite the concerns of some about what constituted sufficient alcohol, or indeed “normal” consumption, and fears that the food might prove inadequate for the appetites of all present, there was no lack of drink or sustenance for anyone. The food itself ran from hand carved Joselito hams, to a table tottering with all of our cheeses from suckling pig in a bun to lentil, goats’ curd and greens stew, and many other delicious delicacies produced by our caterers, Arnold and Henderson. Mention must be made that much of the food (and drink) was very generously donated by a number of our suppliers.
There was an excellent turnout for the event with around 400 people in attendance: suppliers were well represented, which was very gratifying when one considered the time and effort involved for them, with representatives from both large and small producers. Customers came from all areas of business, from the biggest of our wholesalers to local deli owners and a good seasoning of chefs who had managed to get the night away from their stoves.
Roberto Pla and his band of 17 musicians played a couple of great sets and got many people up and dancing; the longer the party went on the more enthusiastic grew the gyrations of the crowd. With the light glinting off the countless brass instruments of the players, the rich Latin sounds and the enthusiastic response of the partygoers to the Colombian tunes, the atmosphere was hot and vibrant.
Speeches were kept to minimum (to the delight of many) and fun was the order of the night.
Brindisa is extremely proud to have been awarded "Speciality Importer of the Year, 2007" for the second year running!
This award is based on the large number of high quality and award winning products we supply to all sectors of the speciality food market.
Brindisa is extremely proud to have been awarded "Speciality Importer of the Year, 2006" for our import business.
